Curry Powder and Garam Masala

Ray Street

Just what is curry powder and garam masala?

Well, in their simplest forms, they are mixtures of spice seeds that have been roasted, crushed and then mixed with other spices to give a delicious blend of spices.

There are lots of different recipes for making curry powder and garam masala, and people have their own favourites. A curry powder recipe on the Curry Focus website has coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves being dry roasted and then ground together, with the resultant powder being mixed with paprika, turmeric, chilli powder and garam masala (garam masala is something similar where spices such as coriander seeds, peppercorns, caraway seeds, cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace are roasted and then ground together).

You can make your own curry powder and garam masala or you can buy readymade (most supermarkets sell curry powders and garam masala and you can buy them from bulk bins in most good Indian stores and supermarkets). Making your own curry powder and garam masala can be a satisfying experience but the convenience of buying readymade cannot be overlooked.

Curry powder was originally made for the British who returned from India and wanted to continue to enjoy the spicy food tastes that they had enjoyed in India. Spices themselves were hard enough to buy in Britain so a readymade curry powder was ideal.

Of course, like a lot of British curry related products, you will hardly ever see curry powder and garam masala for sale in India. Cooks over there either make their own powders or just use the spices directly in their cooking. Most of my curry cookbooks have pictures of people pounding away using mortars and pestles to make their own powders.

There are wildly different opinions on whether or not you should use curry powder and garam masala. Some purists say that you should make your own spice blends and the more radical purists say that you should just use the spices themselves. There are good arguments from all sides. For people who cannot, or can only barely, cook then readymade powders are fine. For those of us who can follow a recipe (like me) then I use whatever the recipe calls for (I am not a good enough cook to make up my own recipes). Most curry recipes that are on the Curry Focus website use individual spices but some do call for curry powder. And some recipes even use individual spices as well as garam masala.

For myself, I just follow the recipes and find out what tastes good. If the recipe gets me to roast spice seeds and then grind the seeds into a powder then I do it – it’s a lot easier now that I’ve bought a spice grinder instead of using a mortar and pestle.

My local spice store has a blend of curry powder and garam masala that I like so I buy these when I’m running low. I keep all of my spices in airtight jars and only buy enough for a few weeks so it is very rare that I have any that lose their flavour and go stale.

So now you have an idea of what curry powder and garam masala are all about. If you’re keen, you can buy some spice seeds and make your own curry powder and garam masala. But there’s nothing wrong with using readymade powders – really.

The important thing to remember is that curry powder and garam masala are blends of spices and are to be enjoyed.

Curry Focus

http://www.curryfocus.co.nz/

Great curry recipes and recipe reviews

[email protected]

Why Anchovies Matter

 

Virgil Evetts

Pity the poor anchovies. In the minds of many they’re a thing of derision: too fishy, too salty, too pungent and rank.  But the joke of it is that even the most committed anchovophobes wolf them down unwittingly in everything from Worcester sauce to the best Thai curries. Like it or not, the anchovy is an insidious dark horse, bringing depth and complexity to dishes spanning untold cuisines and thousands of years Continue reading

Perfect Pumpkin Seeds

 

Virgil Evetts

I’ve written before about my passion for nuts. I just love them, I really do. I’ve been caught up in various waves of determination over the years and tried growing my own almonds, pistachios and peanuts to mostly meagre success. It’s too humid here, our winters aren’t cold enough. You know how it goes with food gardening. Even as I write these words there are two cashew seedlings peeking over my monitor – taunting me with what will probably never be.

Yet for all my toiling with the improbable, I’ve overlooked something far more attainable, and just as rich, delectable and versatile as the very best nuts: pumpkins seeds. Not nuts as such, no, but with their high (mostly unsaturated) oil content, sweet nutty flavour, and penchant for roasting, they might as well be. 

It was only desperation that opened my eyes to the pleasures of the emerald seeds, when midway through making pesto a few months back I discovered I was bereft of anything suitable nutty (curse you late night cravings).  As I dug deeper into the archive of good intentions that is my pantry, I found some long-forgotten and still snugly sealed pumpkin seeds. I sulkily plodded on, expecting very little, and pining for pine nuts.  Well, who needs pine nuts (especially if you consider my unfortunate run-in with them last year)? The pumpkin seeds turned out to be perfectly pitched for the job.

So, more than a little encouraged, I took to tossing the seeds onto pizza, through oil-base pasta sauces, into salads, in fact anywhere at all I would usually use pine  nuts, pistachio or slivered almonds. As with true nuts, pumpkin seeds only really come alive after sautéing or roasting. Oh you can try to tell yourself raw nuts are best if you like. Due to their high oil content, pumpkin seeds burn very- and I mean very- quickly and they  pop quite explosively too, so don’t walk away for even a moment and keep the lid handy to deflect escapees.

I shouldn’t really have been surprised by my pesto success. Pumpkin seeds are used in a similar capacity in many famous Latin American sauces (including the sublime mole verde), providing an unctuous, binding texture and a warm toasty flavour. 

I rather suspect that it’s only for a want of a more glamorous reputation that pumpkin seeds are so overlooked. They’re cheap and abundant, and come from a rather utilitarian vegetable. Hardly sexy, or the stuff of a chi-chi rep. Nevertheless they are a force and a flavour to be reckoned with.

This summer I grew a crop of Austrian oil-seed pumpkins, a variety grown for their large hull-less seeds, rather than their rather watery flesh. Each hefty, tiger-striped fruit yielded a cup or so of ready-to-eat (once dried in the sun for a day or so) seeds, which collectively should keep me going for some months. Hopefully.

Trouble is I’ve just discovered the pleasures of pepitas, the very addictive Mexican bar snack made from spiced, sautéed pumpkin seeds . These are altogether too delicious and easy to make, and I fear for the longevity of my seed crop.

Pepitas

Ruinously More-ish. You have been warned…

Ingredients

1 cup pumpkin seeds

1+  small dried chillies-finely chopped

1tsp salt

½ tsp sugar

3 cloves garlic- crushed

Method

The following should take place very quickly- only a few minutes from start to finish or the seeds will burn.

Toss seeds in a hot, dry pan until they start to pop. Add the garlic, chilli and salt. Continue stirring over the heat until the seeds no longer clump around the garlic. Add sugar, stir once more and remove from heat. Cool on kitchen paper.

Eat with drinks or whenever the mood takes you. The pepitas store well in an air-tight container, but unless you make them in serious bulk this is unlikely to be an issue. Some recipes suggest serving with a squeeze of lime juice and a little finely chopped fresh coriander. A sprinkle of smoked paprika doesn’t go amiss either.

Carrot Cake, Pumpkin Pie & More…

Virgil Evetts

For the most part, I believe that everything has its place in the kitchen and on the palate, and I’m not a great fan of shaking up these hierarchies.  Across our many diverse food cultures we’ve spent thousands of years working out what works together and what doesn’t. So when I tell you that tomatoes and white chocolate do not play nicely, it’s not just my opinion; it the consensus of a species. Continue reading

Foodlovers In Season: March/April

Virgil Evetts

Autumn proper is just about upon us. Mellow fruitfulness abounds, daylight saving has nearly danced its final flourish, and the leaves are all a-blushing. Sitting snugly between parched summer and dreary, dank winter, mid-autumn is peak season for some of the year’s most eagerly anticipated produce: figs, quince, feijoa, pears, apples and more. And that’s just the fruit. Continue reading

Muesli Musings

Virgil Evetts

Some of you might recall me banging on about my breakfast conundrum  a while back, when I first started working from home. I’ve never been a breakfast person and am rarely moved by anything I might have in the pantry. When I worked at the Museum there were plenty of decent cafés nearby, so I could always pick up a brioche or croque monsieur when hunger finally drove me to distraction. Well, I’ve tried a few things since leaving the big house, but none of them really took. Cereals bore me sooner or later, toast is really just toast, and porridge is too much trouble for the most part. I do like a bit of porridge though, especially with cream, sweetened condensed milk, brown sugar and butter. Which brings me to another relevant detail of late. 

As I’m a parent now, I’ve realised I really ought to keep an eye on my health, rather than throwing caution to the wind and similar laissez-faire sentiments.  So I booked one of those men’s heath check-ups with my G.P.  This involved various measurements being taken, flasks and test-tubes being filled ete etc. For the most part, I passed swimmingly. Heart rate: good; blood pressure:  good; no ‘occult blood’ (which is always reassuring); and an acceptable amount of ‘bad cholesterol’ in my blood. My ‘good cholesterol’ levels are apparently through the roof, which I put down to a massive consumption of olive oil. So all good news really… except that is for my Doctor’s parting comment: “you could afford to lose 10 kilos… you’re a bit heavy”

Based on what I told him of my usual eating habits, he suggested that I needed to think about when I was eating, more than what I was eating.  Irritating as it is, I fear he may be on to something. So. Breakfast is back on the agenda, and hopefully my late night tendency towards carb-craving will subside.

I’ve always liked toasted muesli, or at least the idea of it. Trouble is, most of the commercial versions are either too sweet, not sweet enough, lacking in what I like (quality dried fruit and nuts), or loaded  with things I despise (raw peanuts and those horrible nuggets of yoghurt-wax or whatever the hell that stuff actually is). Call me slow off the mark but it only very recently occurred to me to simply make my own muesli. And I do mean simply.

I looked through dozens of recipes on-line. Some were monastically chaste and others little more than confectionary. They had little to offer my fickle tastes, but eventually I gleaned from them a common method. The only essential ingredients in toasted muesli, as far as I could ascertain are oats, honey and vegetable oil (well I suppose you could use animal fat of you really wanted to…). Every things else is dependent on personal tastes, and what you’re looking for in a muesli i.e. tasty, slow-release energy food, or high-health oral flagellation. Needless to say I am firmly of the former persuasion.

So I went shopping. The bulk bins at my supermarket are well decked out for the health conscious kind (it is perhaps telling that I have only recently discovered this fact). I was able to choose between a vast array of fruit and nuts with which to festoon my muesli, but eventually settled on the deluxe berry and deluxe nut mix’s (un roasted, unsalted, no peanuts), and dried papaya with lime. By this time I had a squawking baby Olive to placate, so I filled my bags and carried on shopping with my newly acquired frazzled parent haste…

Later that night

Using the basic method below, I made what really has turned out to be, my ultimate breakfast food. It’s loaded with carbs, protein, vitamins, minerals and copious quantities of my own backyard honey. It’s contrastingly crunchy, sweet, tender and toasty. Better still, such is the variety of ingredients, that every mouthful tastes different to the last.  A modest bowl of this stuff fills me up till well past midday, and my late night pangs appear to be subsiding.

The only real drawback came when I looked closely at my supermarket receipt. I had paid over $30 for those ‘deluxe’ fruit and nuts. Might just use the scales next time.

Virgil’s Ultimate Toasted Muesli

Ingredients

4 cups rolled oats

2 cups dried fruit (I use currants, raisins, cranberries, sultanas, goji berries and papaya)

2 cups raw nuts (I use brazils, walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts, cashews and almonds)

1 cup desiccated coconut

¾ cup honey

¼ cup vegetable oil (I use sunflower)

½ tsp salt

Optional: Whatever takes your fancy

Method

Pre-heat oven to 180C.

In a small saucepan, heat the honey and oil. Do not allow to boil.  Mix together the oats, nuts, coconut and salt. Add the oil & honey. Mix together thoroughly and  leave well alone for about 15 minutes.

Spread the mixture in a thin layer in your biggest oven tray. You may need to do this in batches. Bake until just turning golden (about 10 minutes), stir and repeat. The muesli will be damp and sticky until it cools. Remove from oven and cool thoroughly. If still slightly damp return to the oven for a few minutes.

When completely cooled and crunchy add fruit and blend thoroughly. Store in a moth-proof, airtight container.

Note: If you’re hung up on the benefits of raw nuts, add at the end along with the fruit. Don’t blame me it tastes all beige though.

All things Malaysian!

Foodlovers

Calling all culture vultures! Get a taste of Malaysia this Sunday March 27 at the Auckland International Cultural Festival. This is the place where you get a real celebration of food, dance, sports, and arts and crafts from all around the world.

Best of all, it’s free. Plus you’ll get to sample the great and interesting foods from a long list of countries – including Malaysian cuisine, celebrated for its rich and tantalising flavours!

The Malaysia Kitchen Pavilion is serving up a kitchen-full of authentic Malaysian dishes such as nasi lemak, mee goreng, and the classic rendang.

Malaysia is at the cross-roads of South-East Asia and the cuisine is a fascinating blend of Malay, Chinese, and Indian food. The food is celebrated around the world for its sublime flavours that use herbs and spices such as lemongrass, chilli, basil and nutmeg.

Several of Auckland’s top Malaysian restaurants are going to be cooking up a storm. Look out for KK Restaurant from Manukau Road, Panmure’s Sri Puteri’s, Taste of Malaysia which is in Manukau and The Mustard Seed, a city restaurant.

They’re going to be cooking up some mouth-watering signature dishes including Beef Rendang, Boxing Chicken, Curry Fishballs and everybody’s favourite – Malaysian satay.

The festival kicks off at 10am and by 5pm you should be filled to the brim!  It’s on Sunday 27 March at the Mt Roskill War Memorial Park in Sandringham. Go here for more info:  www.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz/EN/events/EventsCalendar/Pages/auckland_international_cultural_festival.aspx  

Whether you’re interested in trying your hand at some Malaysian cooking at home with some simple but tasty recipes, or want to find your nearest local Malaysian restaurant, visit www.malaysiakitchen.co.nz.

 Feeling hungry after reading this post? Try out this recipe for Nasi Goreng – a Malaysian classic that will make enough to feed the family.

 

Nasi Goreng

Ingredients

350 gm long grain rice

2 tbsp vegetable oil

3 eggs

1 onion

2 green chillies

1 garlic clove

1 leek

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

250 gm beef meat

250 gm shelled prawns

3 tbsp soy sauce

Directions

This dish is best made from cold leftover rice, but you can cook a fresh batch and leave it to cool for at least 4 hours.

Beat the eggs and make into an omelette, slice into strips and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan. Add the chopped onion, leek, garlic and chillies. Fry until the onion is soft. Add the coriander and cumin.

Slice chicken into strips and add with the prawns to the onion mixture and cook, stirring occasionally until they are well mixed.

Add the rice, soy sauce and omelette strips and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Curry Spices

Ray Street

When you think of a curry, you think “spices”. It would be hard to make a curry without spices but that does not mean that the curry has to be so spicy “hot” that it sets your mouth on fire. There are hot curries but there are just as many, if not more, mild and medium spiced curries. And there are some curries where the spices are so mild that you might not notice them at all.

The most often used curry spices are chillies, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, ginger, pepper, saffron and tamarind. There are a lot more spices used in curries but I’m not just going to produce a huge list of them. One good book that gives huge amounts of spice details is Jill Norman’s “herb & spice, the cook’s essential companion”, available from most good libraries.

One thing that I keep getting told is that spices are expensive. Well, yes and no. Relatively, they definitely don’t cost as much as they did in the 15th century when the high price of spices set Christopher Columbus on his search for a new route to the ”Spice Islands”. And you don’t need a lot of spice in a curry to make it taste delicious – most recipes call for about one teaspoon measure of a spice (sometimes a tablespoon full, but not many recipes use this large quantity of a spice). Saffron is easily the most expensive spice (being extracted from the stigmas and styles of the saffron crocus) but you need only a few strands of saffron to add colour and flavour to rice.

You can lower the cost of spices by buying them from the bulk spice containers in Indian supply shops. My local New World even has bulk spice bins. Buying spices in those little glass or plastic bottles is probably the most expensive way to buy spices. I keep all empty glass jars once they are empty of their original contents, give them a good wash and keep them for use as spice jars. My spice containers are a real hotch-potch of jars (no tidy row of matching containers in my cupboard).

One important thing to do is make sure that you don’t keep the spices too long because spices lose their power and pungency after a while. I seldom have spices in my cupboard for more than three months. And it also helps to keep your spices in a dry, dark place because spices also lose their power in sunlight. It’s best to keep your spice jars in a dark cupboard rather than sitting out on the bench (or in a kitchen spice rack).

One advantage of buying spices out of a bulk bin is that you can take as much, or as little, as you need. Sometimes I only buy about a tablespoon amount of a particular spice – no shopkeeper has ever complained that I’m taking too little.

And you don’t need to buy every type of curry spice all at once. You can buy the spices as you need them. Once you’ve been making curries for a while, you’ll be surprised at how many different spices you’ve accumulated.

And spices have another major benefit on top of giving your curries a great taste – they are good for you. Spices have been used to treat a wide range of ailments and illnesses for centuries. In particular, curcumin (a component of turmeric), capsaicin (the active ingredient of chillies) and garlic have a wide range of medicinal uses. And these uses are not just in the “alternative” treatments – some spice compounds are being used in “mainstream” medicine. If you want to see what I mean, just Google “curcumin medicine” to see what a huge amount of research is being undertaken on this spice compound.

You will never be disappointed with spices if you keep them fresh. And a curry without spices?

Unthinkable.

Curry Focus
Great curry recipes and recipe reviews
[email protected]

 

How to cook biscuits

It is weird, the little things that cause you angst.

We were driving home on Tuesday 22nd February and the traffic was inching along. Karl had just spent the previous hour and half trying to find our five year old daughter, who goes to school in Christchurch’s CBD and then another hour and half driving the normally fifteen minute journey from the city to our shop.

Being without power or media, so unaware of quite how devastating this aftershock had been, we were lamenting the biscuits as we turned into our road, a slalom around humps and dips (these have now been repaired).

Karl had been at home cooking with our three year old son before the 6.3 quake struck. They had just lifted out of the oven, a fantastic banana cake. It had risen majestically in the ring tin, browned and cooked perfectly. They popped a tray of biscuits into the oven, then wham! The ground shook violently and when it had finished the power and water were gone. Karl turned the oven off at the wall in case the power came on in his absence and raced out the door and into the car to find our five year old. As we were driving home he was saying how the biscuits were looking really good and now we would have to throw away a tray of raw dough and what a waste of ingredients.

We finally arrived home to find still no power or water. The oven clock read ten to one. We opened the oven door and to our surprise the biscuits were perfectly cooked! They were nicely golden brown and crunchy – a little piece of sweetness in a sad city. So as electricity prices increase, perhaps this a good way to cook biscuits. When the oven is up to temperature, pop your biscuits in and turn off the oven. Leave for a few hours and they will be ready.

Summerfields Foods

207 Waimairi Road, Ilam, Christchurch

open 11am-7pm Tues – Sat

[email protected]

ph 03 357 0067
www.summerfieldsfoods.co.nz

 

Home-Grown Popcorn

Virgil Evetts

I love popcorn (who doesn’t), and it’s one of those things I’d been thought about growing for years. How hard could it be after all? I couldn’t really see much point in growing the ordinary supermarket version though- it’s very cheap to buy, so hardly warrants the effort. I had however started to hear about an heirloom variety called strawberry popcorn, grown for 100 years or so by Maori communities around the East Coast, and possibly sourced from American whalers much earlier. Lynda Hallinan at New Zealand Gardener magazine had called it one of her top crops at one point, but it took me until this summer to get hold of seeds and experiment with a modest patch. Corn takes up a lot of space and is remarkably greedy compared to what it gives back, so I wasn’t about to turnover half the garden to what seemed like little more than a folly.

I rather wish I had. Although I only put in about 20 seeds, all came up and all produced multiple ears of rather gorgeous, merlot-toned, corn. Once harvested these spent several weeks drying on racks arranged under my portico, until they the husks were parchment dry and the individual kernels rock hard. Popping corn needs to ‘cure’ like this or it simply won’t pop.

So it was that I spent a very happy hour in the sun yesterday scraping the kernels from the cobs. As I worked away,  twisting and tugging the hard, red kernels free of the cobs, I noticed that they were staining my fingers – or so I thought. On closer inspection and acknowledgment of the growing pain in my thumb I realised that I had managed to wear a rather deep, and now copiously bleeding, hole in said appendage. I’m a little worried that I didn’t notice this happening actually…

But after a brief first aid pit-stop, I resumed my work, this time wearing a chainmail butcher’s glove which made quick and painless work of the remaining cobs. To my surprise those 20 trial plants yielded nearly two kilos of dried and hulled popcorn. After careful winnowing the rather dusty corn in a stiff breeze, I heated a little olive oil in a pan, added a couple of tablespoons of corn, and … we I’m sure you know how to pop corn.

I think it would be an exaggeration to say the resulting billowy pillows of hot popcorn tasted better, or even very different, to the stuff you might buy from the supermarket, but it was most certainly well seasoned by the knowledge that I grew it myself and that it was incredibly fresh and grown without pesticides, fungicides or phosphate-based fertilizers.

With the obvious exception of organically certified product, commercial popping corn is virtually washed with pesticides and is grown in soil loaded with environmentally destructive phosphate fertilisers. Each to their own though, you know.

Now, before anybody asks, no you can’t pop just any old corn. It only works with certain varieties of maize, which dry to a rock-hard and hermetically-sealed solidity. When heated, pressure builds up inside the kernels until it explodes, or more accurately expands and inverts. Sweet corn and most flour corns are not sufficiently sealed to support the massive build of pressure required to turn a solid kernel inside out, and will simply fizz and splutter in the pan.

Popcorn is a snack I never tire of, preferably served piping hot and sprinkled with plenty of salt. Butter is all fine and good, but the real McCoy makes the corn soggy and the less said about artificial popcorn butter-salt the better.

Strawberry Popcorn seed is usually available from Koanga . Although currently out of stock they will have more before next spring.