Loving Food

Why Anchovies Matter

Virgil Evetts Pity the poor anchovies. In the minds of many they’re a thing of derision: too fishy, too salty, too pungent and rank. But the joke of it is that even the most committed anchovophobes wolf them down … Read more »

Tofu, Tempeh & Sicilian Dried Zucchini

Virgil Evetts I have little time for substitutes. Sure if there’s a war on or something, but otherwise, no thanks. If you don’t mind, I’ll stick with real cream, real sugar, real meat. Substitution is just another kind of … Read more »

Carrot Cake, Pumpkin Pie & More…

Virgil Evetts For the most part, I believe that everything has its place in the kitchen and on the palate, and I’m not a great fan of shaking up these hierarchies. Across our many diverse food cultures we’ve spent thousands … Read more »

Foodlovers In Season: March/April

Virgil Evetts Autumn proper is just about upon us. Mellow fruitfulness abounds, daylight saving has nearly danced its final flourish, and the leaves are all a-blushing. Sitting snugly between parched summer and dreary, dank winter, mid-autumn is peak season for … Read more »

Swedish Rye Bread

Virgil Evetts I used to view rye breads with deep suspicion. They belonged, I thought, to that smug family of foods designed to bring good health through bowel scouring and doer dullness. Well, I hadn’t reckoned on the baking skills … Read more »

Jam, Jelly & All The Rest…

Virgil Evetts Along with cooler, clearer days and nights, autumn also brings with it the year’s greatest avalanche of produce. Eagerly anticipated fruit of every kind overwhelms our appetites and overflows our fruit bowls. But it doesn’t last long. Soon … Read more »

Salmon Sycophancy

Virgil Evetts We have a back-to-front way of looking at our seafood these days: salmon – flavoursome, farmed and fairly priced – is still viewed as a luxury product, while wild-caught snapper remains the stuff of ho-hum ( if extravagantly … Read more »

Know your Ice Creams

Virgil Evetts Legend has it that Marco Polo brought the first ice cream recipe back to Europe after his lengthy jaunt on the far side of the great wall, but he needn’t have bothered, because it was already there

Heavenly Blood Oranges!

Virgil Evetts I’m always a bit iffy about singing the praises of imported produce, especially when it’s something we could be growing locally. But some things are just too good to forsake on principle. Californian blood oranges are once again … Read more »

In Season: February

Virgil Evetts Once again we’re in the grip of high summer, that oppressive, impossibly hot and sticky time of year that can drive one to harbour shameful yearnings for the bleak midwinter. Or is that just me?

Summer Entertaining

Virgil Evetts Summer entertaining can be both a joy and curse. The long, languid days and fine weather (recent episodes notwithstanding) are perfect for kicking back on the deck with good friends, great food and fine wine; but perversely it’s … Read more »